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Let's Go Endurance Racing - Pontini 2014 BRZ Build

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  • Let's Go Endurance Racing - Pontini 2014 BRZ Build

    LET'S GO ENDURANCE RACING!

    PROJECT INTRODUCTION, June 7, 2024: I am writing this with the hope that a car magazine publishes each section in their publication, with as much of this content intact as possible. This is the first part of a multi-article series that may or may not see print media, but I have hope. I have other articles being published by them now, so we'll see if they bite on this one.

    I started writing this at the very beginning of this build in early January 2024, helped the team turn some wrenches, took a lot of pictures, and maybe even inspired this team to pick this 86 chassis? Might be a bit much to take credit for that, as they likely would have made this choice anyway - it seems pretty obvious now.

    =======

    PART 1: PICK AN ENDURANCE SERIES & CLASS + BUY THE CAR

    What is Endurance Racing? If you are a track junkie you have probably heard of LeMons, ChampCar, World Racing League, or one of the other amateur level racing leagues that put dozens of teams with 3-4 drivers in cars on track for 7-25 hour races. The cost to do these events has never been lower and the choices of groups to run with has never been bigger!



    This is NOT pro racing - there is no television contract, few spectators, no autograph signing, and minimal glory. The costs are low enough that you dn't need sponsors to fund it - just 3 or 4 buddies who all want to split the costs and wrench, drive, and compete together in the same car. This is peak amateur road course racing, with real wheel to wheel (W2W) competition on closed circuits, often at famous road courses that you otherwise might never get to race on. The various series each have multiple classes, usually based on power, weight, cost, and/or some semblance of lap time capability.

    Excluding the "professional series" IMSA/FIA endurance racing groups, there are six "large scale" amateur endurance series in the United States at the moment - which do not require a racing license to enter - making it much more accessible to average Joe's. The most common format is a "double 7 weekend", with some testing on Friday, 7 hours of racing Saturday (usually in daylight hours), and another 7 hour event on Sunday, with both scored as separate events.



    Reliability is crucial, and the driver's have to work hard to avoid any contact, which wrecks your chances at a good finish. Just completing these 7-24 hour events is challenging, and to some that is their only goal - just make laps, have fun, and try to finish. A well managed team and a good build can chase a class win or podium, and that is what many teams (including the Pontini Team shown here) shoot for.



    The main difference between a normal SCCA / NASA / PCA "Club Level" W2W road race is that instead of a 20-45 minute races with one driver chasing the checked flag against a handful of competitors, Endurance races usually have 3-4 drivers in every car running over the 7+ hour format. There are mandatory pit stops for driver changes, fueling strategies that must be taking into account, and there is a LOT OF PASSING.

    In the handful of endurance races where I have driven 2-3 hour stints, I usually have been a part of 5-10+ passes PER LAP. The typical "Racecraft" that club road racers have to learn happens much faster in this type of racing format, as there are many more cars on track. It sounds wild but it is a lot of fun, and you don't have to be rich or even have a Club Road Racing License to do it. This is all legal, not a fantasy, and you could be a part of this racing!

    STEP 1 : COME UP WITH A PLAN

    In this first entry following this 2014 BRZ endurance race car build by the "Pontini" Team based in the North Texas area, I want focus on a number of subjects, many of which are done long before you pick the car. This includes picking the right endurance racing series for your budget and region of the country. Once you have picked the best series for your needs, you need to pick the right class within that series, and learn the rules inside and out. Hopefully at this point you have also teamed up with 2-3 other people, so you have a combined budget and workforce bigger than just one person - then and only then do you start looking for the right car to buy.



    In the real world most times people do this whole process backwards - they stumble upon a car and buy it, then find a class, series, and racing buddies to build it with. That rarely works perfectly, and could end up with a project that never gets completed. That I can tell you is the ultimate in frustration - you have a partially completed "race car" that is hopelessly outclassed, stripped of the interior (first thing people do), and often worth less than the donor street car you started with. Sometimes it doesn't even run, so it has to be sold at a huge loss.

    This series of articles is here to hopefully steer you clear of an Unfinished Project Car, and as someone who has had more than a dozen of these false starts over the last 3 decades, I can tell you the sting never goes away. The wasted hours, dollars, and loss of face with your friends and family. Nobody wants to end up here, but so many do simply from poor planning. Learn from my mistakes!

    Proper Planning and Preparation Prevent P!ss Poor Performance (the 7Ps)

    Let's assume you have 2-3 like minded friends who want to "team up" - hopefully they are folks with some motorsports experience and more than two pennies to rub together. Even if nobody on the team is in the top tax bracket, as long as you all have similar amounts of money you are willing to put in for the build AND for a regular schedule of build nights, then it can work. Another discussion - how many events per year to run? The capital and time needed for one event is not insignificant, so don't overshoot and bite off more than you can chew. Some teams never do more than 2 events a year - that is still a great season! Trying to make "all" the races within a given series is extremely ambitious and should not be considered by brand new teams.

    PICK YOUR ENDURANCE SERIES

    Hopefully at the beginning of the planning phase you will find an endurance series you like, that you can afford, and hopefully has some racing events within a reasonable towing distance of your home base. Maybe even one that has events at a race track that you are very familiar with, if you're lucky.



    We did a bit of research to show where the six main endurance series run in 2024, which we have shown with a "heat map" style layout with an approximate 3 hour driving radius around each event. Some series are very regional and others are widespread. Within these series you should be able to find a compatible schedule with races near your team's home base. Again, 2 to 3 events per year is a good initial goal for a new team.



    The schedules for each series changes over time, and this just shows the 2024 series schedules. Figure out what series' track coverage looks right for your location, then look into their costs - as some series team entry fees are more than others. Once you have picked a primary series to build around, look at a secondary series that has races you also want to visit. Your car might not be the most competitive in the second series' rule set, but it is smart to keep more than one series in mind.

    Once you pick a series, look closely at the rules and classes within each. Is one person on your team a spreadsheet nerd? Great - have them put together a shared Google sheet for the "build list", which can be read and modified by all team members. Break up the build into sections, put in proposed modifications, and note the associated rule number that governs each change. This method can also be used to track build costs, but also track each event's costs in another spreadsheet.

    Some series (like ChampCar) use "points" to limit budgets and yet allow some changes, so there needs to be some give and take within the team to plan out the best build. Don't worry about this plan being locked down solid, as things change, different cars have differing needs, and rules also change over time (normally very slowly). This is where some build expediency comes into play - dragging a build out over 2-3+ years likely means your "finished" car might not fits the latest rules.



    I also try to work with customers looking at these endurance race car builds and suggest they buy a running and driving car, do a minimal amount of mods up front, and get it on track after every phase of the build. That's what the Poninti team did here - bought a running car, did minimal mods, got some seat time, then moved to more upgrades in phases. This keeps the the driver's happy (getting seat time!) and keeps momentum going in the build. Things like the safety cage, the fire system, major suspension changes, or aero work can drag out the timeline and budget, but with a running car you can still be going to "track days" to get track time before and after each of these big upgrades.

    Once you have the team built, series picked, the class narrowed down, and the budget laid out, then it is time to pick and buy the car. This step is crucial - buying the "wrong" car, or one with hopeless problems, can tank momentum in a team or project. I will show how the team below got to their "car" decision, below.

    FORMING A TEAM : BUILDING PONTINI RACING

    The three Pontini principles (Jason, Paul, and Adam) all live in Texas - with two of them in North Dallas and one in the Houston area. They all met and raced in college and co-owned the 1999 V6 Firebird shown below. That build actually started with me involved, after I fired up the team to start a "$500 build" within the Lemons series, right after I had driven in some endurance events with two different teams in 2011.



    We actually did things "in the right order" back in 2012 when this project started - we looked at our combined budgets, picked the most cost effective series that ran in our area in 2011 (Lemons), and chose what we felt would be a sophisticated / modern / easy build for the time. This V6 5-speed 1999 Firebird was chosen then, as it was a very competitive and cost effective in that series in back then (some might say it not longer is). We found a car at a salvage yard for $700, did the initial build steps in my shop (Vorshlag), and then it moved to my home garage for the next phase of work after the first track test.



    We did a track day at an early stage - after buying that car in September 2012, it was cleaned up, repairs were made, a few upgrades were done, then it was on track at it's first track test event December 2012, where all of the team members got to drive it. After that test it went back to my garage and.... the build lost momentum. After sitting untouched for 18 months with everyone on the team "busy with life", I parted ways on the build. The remaining team members eventually got the cage installed at another shop and they were competing with it in 2014. That 2+ year time lag was costly, so it always helps to have a motivated team with similar goals and budget commitments.



    That is something you need to be ready for - changes in the team members / ownership, or even dissolution of a team. Depressing things, but just write down what everyone has invested at every stage - there should be a designated treasurer - so that if things have to change or someone has to back out, there are no grudges. After I left the team early in 2013 (I had 6 or 7 car dozen projects of my own to finish), they found "a new third", made a proper build plan, and got the car on track with all of the safety gear in 2014. My shop still sold them parts for this build and helped with some track testing, but otherwise they did it all on their own. After initially started as a Lemons series build, this car competed in numerous ChampCar and WRL events with additional volunteers (you want to have more than just the drivers trackside to help during a race weekend) and racked up some proper podiums and wins.

    They ran this car at 19 events, with 3-4 events per year planned. Then in late 2022 at a race in New Orleans (NOLA), a heavy downpour led to standing water and hydroplaning. That turned this once straight car into an octagon. The driver wasn't hurt at all, as the safety gear did its job, but this multiple-impact shunt put a stop to this car's racing career, and it is an end you need to be OK with. After our painter saw the damage he said "find a new chassis and start over".



    Why should you be ready to write off a race car? A buddy who worked in both Pro and amateur racing series for many years once told me that "Every racer should be financially and emotionally ready to push their car off a 200 foot cliff, while it is on fire, on any given weekend". You don't W2W road race a car you are making payments on, or that you need to drive to work, or that would otherwise "wipe you out" if it ends up crashed and a write-off. That's racing, in a nutshell.

    Endurance W2W racing involves an extraordinarily high number of passes in a single driver's normal 2 hour stint. Many "Club Race" W2W racers will note that a single stint in an endurance car likely involves 2-3x as many passes as they would see in an entire SEASON of Club Racing. A lot of fun, but you have to drive and make passes accordingly. After this hydroplaning incident, this team has committed to keep a full tread / narrower width set of dedicated rain tires in the trailer, for weather extremes.

    continued below
    Last edited by Fair!; 06-28-2024, 01:38 PM.
    Terry Fair - www.vorshlag.com
    2018 GT / S550 Dev + 2013 FR-S / 86 Dev + 2011 GT / S197 Dev + C4 Corvette Dev
    EVO X Dev + 2007 Z06 / C6 Dev + BMW E46 Dev + C5 Corvette Dev

  • #2
    Part 1 - continued from above

    PONTINI RACING'S 2022 CHALLENGE - FIX IT OR BUILD A NEW CAR?

    This crew looked at what they had left over in the '99 Firebird in early 2023 (see above), then debated what to do after that Nov 2022 crash. They could find another 4th gen F-body chassis, build a new cage from scratch (cages never come out and get re-used once they are welded in), move over all of their safety gear and electronics, salvage most of the suspension and brakes, and replace the broken bits. But the decade+ since this Firebird project was started, all of the endurance series have allowed in newer and more competitive cars. That's when I started whispering in their ears..



    Did it make sense 10+ years after the inception of this Firebird build to go back to a 1990s chassis - that really was designed in the late 1970s? You see GM's 3rd generation F-body chassis (1982-92) came out in 1981 and was designed in the late 1970s. Many aspects carried over to the 4th generation (1993-2002) version they had. A lot of engineering has changed in the 50 years since this car was dreamed up.

    Their Firebird had known issues with the factory ABS, the rear suspension was extremely dated (and even several popular Band-Aids didn't make it handle as predictably as a newer chassis), the Borg Warner T5 transmission kept eating itself, and the car's high weight (3050 lbs w/o driver) was a little hefty for the 200 hp it made with the 3.8L Buick V6 (first released in 1961!) They had previously listened to some of my advice on this older car - in 2017 they moved to a 315mm wide tire at all four corners, which dropped their lap times and made the tires last longer. But to fix the rest of this nearly 50 year old chassis would require some drastic changes - and now they also needed a replacement chassis and new cage.

    As much as I love Rear Wheel Drive pony cars, for endurance racing they tend to have a tough time competing with the popular Miatas and BMWs of the same era. High fuel consumption, potential for drivetrain carnage, and heavy overall mass didn't help. To me there was an obvious better solution - build a 1st gen 86 chassis BRZ or FR-S.



    We at Vorshlag have been working with the 2013+ 86 chassis since they first came out in late 2012, have owned and campaigned in both 1st and 2nd gens, and just completed a season of SCCA Time Trial competing with a 2023 BRZ in T3 class. It just so happened that a local track (ECR) had also acquired a 1st gen 2020 GT86 automatic. We gave the track some of our front camber plates, they added 225mm Hankook RS4 tires, and someone donated PFC brake pads - this became their rental Equalizer car. They would rent this car for 3 lap stints with a posted leader board of times, and all of the money went to charity. The fastest driver after a 2 month period got bragging rights. And the automatic transmission wasn't as bad as I had thought it would be.

    I took one of the Pontini Racing team members to drive this car, and took him for a ride on my first 3 lap stint. He was blown away - it was clear that this nearly stock 2020 86 was both quicker and easier to drive on track than their race prepped and well developed 1999 Firebird. The modern ABS, better overall suspension design, and much lighter overall weight were too hard to explain away. And right about this the time, ChampCar had just classed the 2013-17 86 for their series as a "500 point" car. This team really liked ChampCar, for both overall seat time, enjoyment, costs, and competitiveness, and this chassis looked like a good choice.

    The way ChampCar works, they "class a car" and give it some initial base point total, if they even class it at all (many high powered, expensive, and newer cars are not ever classed). This is to keep big power spendy sports cars out of the series, so it doesn't turn into a spending spree, like a select few series. You only get a total of 500 points to "spend" on the build: the base classing points + any buffer under 500 total to use in your choices to modify the car. But when the 2013-17 BRZ was allowed in, it was one of the newest chassis allowed. And newer is often better, for reliability and even some performance aspects.



    People often do not realize how capable these 1st gen 86s are, as they come with very skinny / low grip tires from the factory, which hinders their "out of the box" lap times. The overall weight is extraordinarily low for a "4 seat" coupe (2650-2750 pounds), they have fender enough room to swallow a stickier 255mm tire, the stock brakes and ABS work extremely well, and the handling is very neutral in stock form. These also respond well to the normal suspension tricks: camber, dampers, spring rates, bushings, bars, and better tires.

    The power isn't always impressive, especially the 2.0L powered 1st gen cars, but the 200 hp rating makes for about 165 whp on a chassis dyno. With a race weight of under 2550 pounds this could still be pretty spicy for ChampCar class Group B. It took some time, but eventually I convinced the Pontini Team to buy one of these 86 chassis, sell their wrecked V6 Firebird, move their safety gear and electronics over, and build up this newer 86 chassis - without the "old car problems" their 1999 model race car had, or the dated suspension and flawed ABS systems of that era.

    BENCH RACING, SEARCHING AND BUYING THE CAR

    After the team had agreed on this new purchase (a process which took from early 2023 to early 2024) the search for a car began - but also the bench racing. Which can be half the fun! Since this "500 point" base car had no points headroom left for any upgrades, one legal way within ChampCar was to "get some points back" by choosing the automatic transmission. This nets the team 75 points for their build upgrades, which if they are careful should get them into non-adjustable coilovers, some camber, and maybe some light aero.

    Couple that with all of the "free" upgrades that cost no "points" (radiator, 4 piston BBK, wider wheels/tires, and more) it could make for a competitive entry for ChampCar class B, plus a secondary series WRL GP3 car, with some small parts changes between the two series. So the goal of a primary and secondary series / class looks like it will work, at least on paper.



    The car search landed them with a decent running and driving purchase in January 2024 - this 2014 BRZ automatic with 122K miles was nabbed for $9000 (top left). The car had been sold at a wholesale dealer auction and they picked it up from that buyer. One of the tires was corded, it had some "deferred maintenance", and even some interior wear - but for a race car this was a jackpot. It ran, it drove, and with a little help it could get on track soon with minor repairs and the fewest of modifications.

    The two Dallas team members - Jason and Paul - both have home shops with lifts, that many would envy. This was a far cry from their situations in 2011 when we started that 1999 Firebird, where I was the only one with a home shop with a lift. This makes working on the BRZ easier at either location, which are 15 only miles apart. Logistics come into play for any team, and having a "shop" with a lift is really helpful, but not totally necessary.

    WHAT'S NEXT? (BUILD / TEST / REPEAT)

    The next entry in this series of articles will show the first phase of modifications, which included some camber plates, brake pads, and a quick track test. Again this is key in keeping the team momentum alive in any long term build that started off as a running car - build it in phases, and keep going to the track after each key round of work. This way it never becomes the dreaded "non-running project" that is in a million pieces and worth nothing. At any phase of this build, if something crucial happened - a weirdly detrimental change in the rules / car reclassification, a major life event for one or more team members, or otherwise the project had to be stopped - the car was still just hours away from being a running complete car that is easy to sell.



    This "build / test / build / test / repeat" plan doesn't always work for every build, but for most of the long term projects that we have done at Vorshlag (either for in-house development builds or customers' race cars) this plan emphasizes the most enjoyment over the entire build duration. You always get to drive the car after every major round of changes and quantify the lap time drops (or not!) along the way, and getting seat time is always fun. We did that in the first two phases of this build, and I hope the Pontini crew can keep that build / test plan going throughout this build. Stay tuned next time to see the "Phase 1" modifications and the first track test!

    Thanks for reading,

    Terry @ Vorshlag
    Last edited by Fair!; 06-12-2024, 09:11 AM.
    Terry Fair - www.vorshlag.com
    2018 GT / S550 Dev + 2013 FR-S / 86 Dev + 2011 GT / S197 Dev + C4 Corvette Dev
    EVO X Dev + 2007 Z06 / C6 Dev + BMW E46 Dev + C5 Corvette Dev

    Comment


    • #3
      PROJECT UPDATE - PART 2 - November 13, 2024: In our last installment we explore the various endurance road racing series, making a plan, putting together a team, picking a primary class, finding a car, and starting a build. We followed along with Pontini Racing as they decided to ditch their very wrecked car of the previous decade and they upgraded to a 2014 Subaru BRZ automatic to be built for ChampCar Series B class.



      That was a lot of bench racing, searching, and then finding a car. We left off where they were on February 1, 2024. Let's pick up from there and follow along while they do some maintenance, basic track prep, get through their first track test, then explore the class legal upgrades and modification "points" that ChampCar has for this car and have since changed for 2025!

      STEP 2 : REPAIR, ADD CAMBER, UPGRADE TO "PHASE 1" FOR THIS BUILD

      The car was procured by Pontini Team member Adam in Houston at a dealership that specializes in buying cars from insurance auction. This one was a repo special that had a lot of deferred maintenance, two dead tires, but otherwise ran well - and it was cheap! It was transported by team member Jason straight to the team's headquarters in Dallas, his home shop.



      Once at Jason's shop the car was power washed underneath and underhood, and the outside was washed (one of his daughters helped!) Then a list of maintenance items was written up and other Phase 1 upgrades planned out. I joined the team on a Friday night (2/2/2024) the week they bought the car to weigh it in three iterations, plus I brought some loaner wheels and tires from our 2023 BRZ for use in their initial testing. The car needed tires to replace a set showing steel belts.



      The stock 17x7" wheels were fitted with 3 different brands of 215/45R17 tires, and it was clear there was some light damage to the car from the initial inspection and tire wear patterns. It was purchased at a wholesale auction in the first place - and those tend to not be exactly super well maintained cream puffs. Nothing that some RockAuto shopping cannot fix.



      Jason was in the middle of an oil change when Paul and I arrived with my wireless scales - so handy, but quite heavy, and I never loan them out unless I can deliver and supervise their use. After an initial weighing with full weight "stock everything" on board, it was time to pull the "trunk junk" - the spare tire, jack, and other tools in the trunk (that all came to 38 pounds). This is how I like to weigh any car, with all of the things you would typically remove for an autocross or track day. I also try to weigh with little to no fuel load, but with the sketchy tire, Jason had no way to burn off the 1/2 tank of fuel it came with.



      The 2707 pound weight image above shows the fuel load and total weight, as well as front-to-rear bias (57% front / 43% rear). That is an impressive number for an automatic transmission equipped 86, and it was within 18 pounds of my guesstimate (I like to think I am good at guessing car weights). This was with the itty bitty 17x7" OEM wheels and little 215mm tires.

      Sure, that 57% front weight number seems "front heavy", but nearly any modern RWD car is, especially when you start to remove interior weight. The team will relocate the battery from underhood to the trunk, and the cage will add some rear bias, but it will never be a "perfect 50/50" weight split. I will take low weight over a perfect bias in a heavier car, every time.



      For our third weighing of the night we swapped on my set of 17x9" Enkei wheels with 255/40R17 Yokohama A052 tires, and checked again. This time it gained 9 pounds to start out at 2716 pounds with the same 1/2 tank of fuel and "no trunk junk". That is a small price to pay to gain 40mm of tire and 2" of wheel width at each corner. Turns out we wouldn't use these wheels at the track test, but I will cover that later.



      That first work night when the car was on Jason's 2-post lift, we wiggled and pulled and pried on all of the bushings and ball joints on this car, as well as the wheel bearings. The front control arms needed ball joints and bushings, one front wheel bearing was bad, and the endlinks were shot. The parts list was made and parts were ordered.



      On the second work night a week later most of the maintenance parts had arrived, plus I brought over some parts we make or had in stock. We got to work on some initial mods that we do on almost every 86 car that will see track use - adjustable front camber plates made for the OEM struts and springs, a pair of cheap wheel spacers, Motul RBF600 brake fluid, and some fresh Motul Gear 300 for the rear axle (which likely had the original 10 year old fluid still inside).

      Since they had new front hubs coming (which were delayed), I also brought some M12-1.5 threaded 3" long ARP wheel studs and matching M12-1.5 nuts we keep in stock - which are NOT the OEM thread pitch, but this setup is stronger than the factory M12-1.25 fine thread studs. We do this conversion on Subarus all the time, as these threads are thicker and less likely to gall or strip. You just have to get the right part number for the knurled diameter and the matching lug nuts.



      The team pulled the front struts and I used my floor mounted spring compressor to remove the factory top mount plus upper perch, then installed the Vorshlag camber plates. The struts were pretty worn out, but we went ahead and mounted, then bolted that into the strut tower and the spindle.



      The camber was racked all the way in, and if I had my way we would have utilized crash bolts as well (this gets the front close to -3.5 degrees of camber on these cars, with about 1 degree of that coming from the crash bolts). As I was wrapping up the camber plate install the team was removing the end links and lower control arms, and getting those swapped over. They also did the rear axle fluid change with the Gear 300.



      Wheel hub bearing assemblies are a common repair item on any track car, and some cars like this 86 often require a front set after every endurance weekend (which could be 16-24 hours of practice and 2 days of racing). Removing and replacing these "unit bearings" is fairly easy and can be done track side, but it is smarter to do this back at the shop before you notice the wear and noise of worn units.



      For work night 3 (2/12/2024) the new stock replacement SKF front wheel bearings had finally arrived. We had the ARP wheel studs on hand - you can see the differences in the M12-1.25 vs M12-1.5 threads in the image above right (every picture in every post I make can be clicked for higher resolution versions).



      The team pressed out the short, stock length M12-1.25 studs from the new SKF hubs and pressed in the 3" long ARP M12-1.5 studs with the thicker threads. The new wheel hubs were then bolted back into the spindle and Blue Loctite was used on the 4 bolts, which were torqued to the factory spec.



      The factory front calipers were reinstalled but with some CSG brake pads that the team had picked up second hand, which would be used in a single track test before a Big Brake Kit (BBK) upgrade that was planned. The old brake fluid was flushed and bled at all four calipers. The small wheel spacers were installed with the 17x9" wheels and then we checked and reset the front toe - since we had both added camber plates and made a big adjustment there (which alters toe) as well as replaced the outer tie rods (which also alters toe).



      I drove the car that night to another team members house in preparation for an alignment. The steering shaft made some horrific noise, but after a quick call I was told "hey, we know about that and have parts coming to fix it - don't worry" and the drive back was otherwise uneventful.

      PHASE 1 TRACK ALIGNMENT

      We don't have a quick way to align a car with a "laser" at my shop, so we use alignment shops near us that we trust. A repair shop near Vorshlag can tackle relatively easy alignments, and they also let us come by and help if it gets tricky. On this first track alignment for the Pontini BRZ with the "Phase 1" round of modifications, we just gave them our "alignment goals" work sheet and let them handle it.



      The front camber got all the way to -3.0 deg, which is pretty good. The added caster offset of the Vorshlag plates for the front to +7.5 deg of caster, also ideal. They set the front toe to zero, (mostly) evened up the rear camber at -1.6 deg, and gave us a healthy bit of rear toe in (.28 deg total toe in). I was happy with that and they only charged the team $90 for the alignment. We were now ready for our first track test!

      TRACK TEST 1 - MSR CRESSON 1.7 CCW - FEB 16, 2024

      The build had really good momentum and in only 4 work nights the guys had this repo special cleaned up, freshened up, cambered up, aligned, brake pads upgraded and bled - all within about 6 weeks of purchasing the car. That sort of early motivation is hard to beat, and to keep the momentum going, I strongly encouraged the team to do an "initial baseline" track test like this - and even loaned them two sets of wheels and tires for the day.



      I had brought another car to test (our T3 classed 2024 Darkhorse), and had two other customers out there taking laps at the same time as the Pontini boys all got laps in the BRZ. They took turns and drove about 15 minutes each over the course of a few sessions on that chilly morning. The goal here was to get a "Baseline time", but mostly for each driver to get some seat time and a feel for the car.



      To keep the car a bit easier to drive at the limit for their first time out, we swapped to these 225mm Falken RT660 tires on factory 18x7.5" wheels from our 2023 BRZ. The plan was to let the 3 team members get some laps in on these relatively modest but long lasting Falken tires, then switch to the faster and wider 255mm Yokohama A052 tires (which fall off after about 3-4 laps) after lunch.



      All 3 team members got a feel for it and had a lot of fun, and their initial times on this 1.7 mile CCW course were all within 2 seconds of their former Firebird endurance car from late 2021, which as the time was on 315mm Falkens and had a decade of development in it. After I was done testing 2 sets of tires on the Darkhorse the team had me make a few laps in the BRZ - I had a faulty AiM SOLO in the car at the time (2 of my 3 units were in other cars) but they hand timed my laps to a mid 1:27 runs. It was super easy to drive with the automatic, the added camber, and good brake pads and fluid.



      I handed my Cannon camera to Pontini team member and spotter Keith to shoot some shots, and asked him to get some of the car loaded up in the high speed corner Big Bend (top left) and also into some braking zones (above right). The stock dampers seemed pretty much shot to me, but it was still drivable. As you can see the -3 deg of camber all disappeared into bushing deflection and body roll in Big Bend, and the sloppy dampers and soft springs allowed for a LOT of brake dive. These shots make for a great visual of what can be improved - and the team had the "points" for proper coilovers, which could alleviate most of these handling deficiencies.



      Jason wanted to take another crack at the track after seeing my lap times, so just before lunch right before a session was about to end I went out with him for a coaching lap - where he found some time, even carrying me along. That 1:29.8 lap (video shown below) showed peak g traces of 1.23 g lateral and 1.06g braking, which are great for that RT660 tire. The conditions were cloudy and cooler all day, leaving the surface of the track a bit "cold", but is better than being too hot.



      The 1:27 laps that I managed (I have an advantage of 800+ laps and 20 years of racing on this layout) in the BRZ were already quicker than their previous Firebird race car's best here, so that was very encouraging - and we never took the skinny RT660s off. The A052 tires would have knocked another 2-3 seconds off that lap, but the conditions were getting worse and rain was moving in, so we called it a little early. With more dry time at the track we could have found even more time.

      continued below
      Last edited by Fair!; 11-14-2024, 04:18 PM.
      Terry Fair - www.vorshlag.com
      2018 GT / S550 Dev + 2013 FR-S / 86 Dev + 2011 GT / S197 Dev + C4 Corvette Dev
      EVO X Dev + 2007 Z06 / C6 Dev + BMW E46 Dev + C5 Corvette Dev

      Comment


      • #4
        continued from above

        PHASE 2 UPGRADES - PICKING SUSPENSION AND A BRAKES

        The ChampCar series gives this car a "VPI" base value of 500 points. And you only get 500 points of total VPI to build a car for Classes A-D, without taking penalty laps. Every 5 points over 500 gains you a 1 lap penalty for a given race, and that usually leaves you with an impossible hill to climb. So teams generally shoot for a 500 point build, and no more.

        Luckily the ChampCar series gave automatic transmission equipped cars a +75 point bonus, which is a lot. This essentially turns the base VPI to 425 points. That 75 points is enough points for a coilover suspension (+40 points - no damper adjustment, just ride height and spring rate), home made camber plates (+5), an air dam (+10), front splitter (+10), and rear wing (+10). For Phase 2 they were just going to tackle the 45 points worth of suspension upgrades, to keep the costs down and allow for a quick return to more track testing.



        Jason and I here at Vorshlag brain stormed a solution that we have done before for the 86 chassis - a non-adjustable damping set of Bilstein PSS dampers + upgraded springs and top mounts. We've done this for other endurance racers and those on a tighter budget. This gives you a beefy inverted monotube front strut, monotube rear dampers, with 60mm adjustable height lower perches. We throw away the tapered springs (made to work with the stock top mounts) they come with and replace the soft rates with a popular 450 #/in front and 500 #/in rear set of Hyperco springs.



        We even add tender springs out back, as there are no added points for those, and no other downside other than cost. But even though I was sponsoring the Vorshlag camber plates and rear shock mounts, the "aftermarket" camber plates would add +20 points, and just start to push points budget for Phase 3 (with aero and wider wheels).



        To get around this +20 point camber plate rule, Paul came to my shop one weekend and hand made a set of camber plates. Cut, drilled, tapped, and spray painted them from plate steel scrap we had in our recycle pile.



        I guided him, but Paul did all of the drilling, welding, sanding, and painting for these steel main plates. Those were paired with some commercially available and inexpensive spherical bearing holders you can buy online. Not ideal, but this should all should meet the spirit of the "home made" rule.



        Before the 3rd work night back in February I had brokered a deal on a used set of CSG sourced Brembo front brakes that one of my customers was selling. I got those cleaned up and ready to go on with a good set of CSG pads and the rotors and lines to make them bolt up to a 1st or 2nd gen 86.



        These upgraded Bilstein coilovers and Brembo brakes were ready to go on in Mid March, and the car needed an alignment, then we could get back to the track. But the team members got busy, and I was in the peak part of a busy racing schedule, too - with my own S550 Mustang Time Trial car (below left) as well as our 2024 Mustang Darkhorse that my wife competed with in another TT class.



        Still, I was hoping to get these coilovers and brakes, installed in March, then to go quickly to another track test, with the stock seats and interior. Keeping this momentum going is really helpful for team morale. And yet everyone's schedule got busy.

        ADDING COILOVERS AND BIG BRAKE KIT

        Starting right after the Phase 1 track test (just camber plates + brake pads), the team jumped right into the Bilstein coilover and Brembo brake installation work.



        The Bilstein coilovers and Brembo front brakes went in at Jason's shop in early April 2024. The guys did a good job and got the parts swapped over quickly.



        You can see the rear damper assemblies above - the Bilstein damper itself is about 50 mm shorter, as it is made to be run at a lower ride height than stock. The spring package - consisting of the rear Hyperco spring and Eibach tender - are almost as long as the super soft factory rear spring.

        The lower ride height and shorter damper leads to less total travel, but this is a compromise we often have to make on any racing suspension. The key is matching the drop with a shorter damper to maximize bump and rebound travel within the new package. On the front strut, luckily, the aftermarket strut can be made longer than the OEM so we don't lose any stroke at the lowered ride height.



        The ride heights and initial front toe was set and at this point it would have been great to do another track test - get some seat time, dial in the alignment and tire pressures, and see where the car was compared to track test 1. But the team decided to dig in and change the seat.

        REMOVING THE INTERIOR AND ADDING A RACING SEAT

        On the last weekend in February the team got together and removed all of the interior - the carpet, interior panels, seats, headliner, console and door panels. I begged them to leave the dash in place, and they did, then I also asked to keep the center console. Keeping that 9 pounds of plastic + "Level 3 Safety" (full cage) lets you run a car in SCCA Time Trial Max classes, but I lost that battle.



        These parts were removed carefully and cleanly - and pictures were taken of each major component. That is because these used interior parts HAVE VALUE, and once cleaned up they can put hundreds of dollars back into the team's budget. Don't just go "ripping and tearing" parts out, like you see on the Cars and Sparks TV shows, unless you have someone paying you to make a TV show where you do that silly stuff. Do it for the clicks, hehe!



        The bulk of the interior removal work was done over a weekend when all 3 team members could work on the car at once, but I was away at a race so they took pictures for this article. Carpets, door cards, interior panels, headliner, plastic trunk panels, back seat, and the front factory seats. They also removed the curtain airbags and driver and passenger airbags. This both removed weight and made for more headroom - plus brought a small amount of money, after listing parts on marketplaces.

        The team was really adamant about adding the racing seat from their last race car, which better fit the drivers compared to the OEM seat and 3-point OEM belts.



        They tackled the install of a Vorshlag driver's side 86 seat bracket base + our 86-specific side brackets and slider next. To this assembly they added their custom built, containment style aluminum seat. This was measured for and built by Ultra Shield for their former car, and it survived the crash perfectly intact. With nothing more than padding changes it fits all 3 drivers, even me.



        We make this 86 seat bracket kit with special side brackets to allow for sliders to fit without covering up the original 4 factory bolt holes. Aluminum seats have some additional requirements - you either drill through the sides or bottom of the seat structure, then add LARGE steel washers to spread the load. That prevents tearing out the mounting bolts in a high impact crash.

        The team had that seat and bracket assembly installed quickly after the interior was out, which removed flammable items and dead weight. Virtually all Wheel 2 Wheel racing series require that you remove most of the interior panels, so this was nothing unusual to tackle.



        Thankfully they left the door bars in the doors, so it still had side crash protection. That means - at this point they could still go do a track test safely, even if just using the factory 3 point belts.



        The factory air conditioning compressor was removed and replaced with this A/C delete pulley assembly, which is common part made for many cars that are used in climates around the world where air conditioners are optional.



        At this point the car was moved from Jason's home shop to Paul's home shop, which is right down the street from my shop - so I was able to come by more often to document and help work on the BRZ. Somehow we jumped to mid May and I was begging them to do a track test. The car was hundreds of pounds lighter, had the coilovers and Brembo brakes, and it would have been a good time to test on the sticky Bridgestone RE71RS tires and 17x9" wheels, for a change.



        The addition of a properly designed harness bar could have allowed the team to put in the 6-point harness for the driver's seat and gone racing. Or again, the 3-point OEM belts could have been re-used to get some laps - but that was going to take some work to add the OEM lower buckle to the seat. I have built a harness bar for a car just to get 6-point belts and a fixed back seat safer, to get it on track before a 4-point roll bar or 6-point cage can be built. Some frown on this short cut, but it can work for a short period of testing (not W2W of course) with some chassis and the better harness bar designs.

        BUDGET UPDATE - PHASE 2

        The team has allowed me to share the costs on the major items. I will even put an (estimate) on things they have re-used from their previous car, and on things that Vorshlag. sponsored. People always want to know what this stuff costs, so we're here to share!
        • 2014 Subaru BRZ chassis, running and driving, $9000
        • Bilstein PSS coilovers, 450/500# coilover spring conversion ($3135)
        • AC delete bracket and pulley, $137.80
        • UltraShield custom built, aluminum, full containment seat ($1000)
        • Vorshlag 86 seat bracket base ($395), wider side brackets ($145), and Sparco slider ($85), ($625)
        • Paragon 18L ice chest driver cooling system ($318 , bracket ($98 , and hose kit ($69), ($485)
        • CSG Spec Brembo GT Brake Kit - 4 Piston caliper, 326x30mm Slotted rotors ($2095)
        • New SKF front hubs ($216)
        • ARP long front wheel studs ($88 , Vorshlag lug nuts ($34)
        • New OEM style front control arms ($116) and Moog outer tie rods ($36)
        • Not going to tally up fluids and such, but about $200 of Motul fluids
        • Enkei TFR 17x9 5x100 ET45 wheels, used ($920)
        As you can see they only paid retail for two items in the list above, the car and the AC bracket. Everything else was purchased used, already owned by the team, loaned by someone, or sponsored by Vorshlag (either partially or completely). So all in for Phase 2, if they had paid for all of this stuff new would be $17,736 at this stage.

        In the next installment the roll cage costs go onto the budget, and while that always stings, is 100% necessary. We will cover those costs next time.

        WHAT'S NEXT?

        As I was wrapping up writing this Part 2 installment in November of 2024, the December 2024 issue of Grassroots Motorsports Magazine showed up in the mail box. And to my shock, Part 1 of this series - which was initially just another forum post thread for me - was the cover article. Very exciting! I need to keep these articles brief to make it into the magazine, so this is a good stopping point for part 2.



        In Part 3 we will chronicle the roll cage and safety gear installation work, which is a significant step - both in terms of time and monetary commitment. We will discuss how to pick the right shop to make the roll cage to your series' ruleset - as "building your own cage" at home is almost unheard of nowadays, due to the expensive tools, fabrication skills, and welding experience needed to do this right.



        We will also cover Track Test #2 next time, which happened after the cage and safety gear went in, a week before their first endurance rate. That first race and the aftermath will be enough for its own Part 4 article, I think.



        Stay tuned here, as you will get the long winded version on our little forum sooner than the Magazine versions. The edited and polished version does support Grassroots Motorsports Magazine, which the industry needs. Please, if you aren't a GRM subscriber already, please sign up for the best Motorsports magazine in the world.

        Thanks for reading!
        Last edited by Fair!; 11-14-2024, 04:18 PM.
        Terry Fair - www.vorshlag.com
        2018 GT / S550 Dev + 2013 FR-S / 86 Dev + 2011 GT / S197 Dev + C4 Corvette Dev
        EVO X Dev + 2007 Z06 / C6 Dev + BMW E46 Dev + C5 Corvette Dev

        Comment


        • #5
          PROJECT UPDATE - PART 3 - April 7, 2025: When we last caught up this project, all the team had was a gutted race car with a racing seat, getting ready for a roll cage install and final safety gear. In this installment we will cover the cage prep / install / painting, a fire system install, an aftermarket defroster, two tow hooks, adding a Lexan back window, some electronics, a dash panel, and a weighing session.



          The team got through this round of mods by September 12, 2024, then they got their car back to MSR Cresson for Track Test #2, a week before the car's first ChampCar competition. We will cover all of the upgrades to the BRZ, and through the second track test. Lots of ground to cover, so let's get to it!

          DID WE MISS A GOOD TIME FOR A TRACK TEST?

          May 15th, 2024 - the second phase of modifications was complete (see the Part 2 forum installment), the BRZ was now on proper coilovers and had the big Brembo brakes installed as well as a proper race seat. I was really pushing the team to take the car to the track for a second test, now, when the car was the lightest it would ever be and right before adding the roll cage. The BRZ did not have a racing harness or a place to hang the shoulder straps from, but we could have put the stock 3-point belt in for this test.



          But timing was poor, and I was overruled - mostly from the fact that they didn't want to temporarily install the 3-point OEM belts. Instead the team loaded the car up for the trip to the fab shop down in Austin, Texas to have the roll cage installed.

          The team was still trying to make a ChampCar race September 20th, 2024 at a Texas track they have run many times before, Harris Hill Road. And the time needed to add a roll cage is not insignificant. The fabricator they chose had a small window to get the car in for the roll cage fabrication work, and they didn't want to wait around for a track test. I don't blame them one bit.

          PICKING A CAGE SHOP TO INSTALL A ROLL CAGE

          As I clearly point out in my long standing Roll cages forum post, a race car needs to be thoroughly stripped with the seat you want installed before you start shopping for a shop to build and/or install your roll cage kit. After that, picking the shop to install a roll cage is a big step, and we are going to cover it in detail. A racing roll cage is usually the largest single expense by anyone building a W2W race car due to the complexity of building a cage properly, the material costs, and the special skills and time it takes. Luckily you only need to do this ONCE for any given chassis.



          Before we get started here, if you have a chance PLEASE read this forum post I wrote in 2015 about how we price out roll cage jobs here at Vorshlag. Long story short: roll cage builds are a frustratingly expensive, time consuming fabrication jobs and we price them high so we don't get too many takers. These rarely even pay "time and materials", so we won't even bid these jobs unless we are getting substantial other work that can help make up for the low rates that cages tend to pay. A shop that is good at building roll cages almost always ONLY builds roll cages, and for good reason.

          USING A CAGE KIT VS A SCRATCH BUILT CAGE?

          I actually wrote a forum post detailing this last year in this link, but I will cover the basics again here for this thread.

          For months the principles from Pontini Racing were looking at options for a either a roll cage kit that we at Vorshlag could install versus taking the BRZ to a dedicated fab shop that has done road race legal cages for the 86 chassis. This is a challenging decision - installing a cage kit is not something many if not most endurance race teams are qualified to do on their own, but neither is scratch building a cage, which is so much harder.



          My shop Vorshlag has installed both bespoke roll cages (where we design it, bend it, fit it, and weld it together - see above)) as well as installed pre-made cage kits. Using a well designed pre-bent and pre-cut cage kit is a LOT easier, as you are typically taking a set of tubes that have been CNC bent and notched to fit together. This takes dozens of hours of fabrication time out of the equation. Two cage kits we have installed went very smoothly. The Trackspec Motorsports cage kit we bought and installed for the S550 Mustang was a GAME CHANGER. I don't ever want to tackle a scratch built cage again, if they make a kit!



          Most of these modern cage kits are now made after 3D scanning a chassis, then designing the kit in CAD software that can give you a materials sheet with tube lengths, bend radii for each tube, and sometimes even notching by robotic tooling. We've got some of these capabilities at our shop, but not all. There are a handful of shops around the world that specialize in this type of computer designed, extremely repeatable cage kit - and some are even blessed by the FIA. Those types of kits are a pretty good bet to be legal in grassroots endurance racing like Champ, Lemons, WRL and the like.



          After looking for a well designed, CNC bent and cut cage kits for the 86 chassis, we found the Cagekits.Org options, shown above. It was a bit worrying that 3 of their 4 kits for this chassis were drift spec, as those groups don't tend to follow the same safety regulations that road race cages do. Mostly we want to build around SCCA or NASA cage rules, but Champ as some unique requirements that cannot be ignored.



          The Pontini team members liked a certain FIA cage kit for the 86, but we found almost no other companies offering one at the time. And they wanted to make some changes to that kit - move a few tubes around, move the main hoop back, etc. Seems simple but it clearly was not. I told them my shop could not guarantee an install price for a pre-made kit with the changes they wanted, and not having the cage kit here to inspect, so that pretty much pushed the work to another shop.



          Team member Paul and I saw the S Collective 2nd gen 86 endurance race car (above) out at Eagles Canyon Raceway and took a number of pictures of the cage in it, to show the rest of the team and my engineers here at Vorshlag. This cage was hand built by Walker Pro Motorsports out of Austin, Texas. They have a repeatable, scratch built design and fixtures for the difficult tubes, like the main hoop and A-pillar down bars - the tubes with a number of complex bends.

          Walker's shop gave them a fixed price quote of $5700 with the list of options they wanted - Nascar style door bars on both sides, the added FIA vertical bar, cage designed to accommodate taller folks, and they agreed to remove the OEM door bars within the factory doors. A fixed price bid like this is impossible unless you really know a particular chassis and have done it a number of times.



          After starting this shop sent some build pictures to them during the process. Walker also allowed them to make the small tweaks to the design, to gain some much needed seat sliding room, and that was the deal closer. The Pontini team picked that company and took the car to their shop for this install in May of 2024.

          ROLL CAGE COMPLETE!

          After the cage was built by Walker Pro Motorsports, the Pontini Racing crew picked it up and returned to Paul's home shop for the rest of the prep work on July 27, 2024. It took a little longer than the estimated time frame, but Walker also moved his shop to a new location during the span of this build, which always adds time to any job.



          The back glass and windshield were both removed before it went to the cage shop, which is a step that if you don't do ahead of time they WILL have to do once the fab work begins. The access gained by removing these two big pieces of glass is required for welding, as you will see in some steps below.



          One of the optional upgrades that Pontini asked for was a few short "taco plate" reinforcements from the cage to the chassis, like the short one at the A-pillar shown above. This was the maximum allowed in the ChampCar regulations, and they triple checked rules before it was done.

          ADDING WINDOW NET BRACKETS

          One of my least favorite things about a W2W race car is having to use a window net. I am not a fan of anything that hampers my exit from a potentially burning race car, but they are a necessary evil for now. This was an optional item that Walker Pro offered, but but that the Pontini Racing boys wanted to tackle themselves was the window net mounting. So before the cage was painted, it was time to tackle the window net brackets - which needed to be welded to the cage on the driver's side.



          I get it, having your arm flailing out the open window in a rollover would suck. Anyway, there are many types of driver window nets out there: ribbon style, net style, and a combo of the two to choose from.



          The popular center net style for pro racing at the moment is this style from Safecraft, and they make a unit for door openings as well. The popular lance style connector is really nice, and what we use when we have to use a center net. They make one for door openings also, but these triangular style are made for driver head containment. Most racing orgs still want to see a "full coverage" square style net for the door opening - which keeps flailing arms inside the cabin and debris from a crash on the outside.



          Virtually all window nets do not come with a "Window Net Installation Kit", but we had one of the RaceQuip kits on hand that we donated to the team. Problem was that the included weld-on brackets needed for both ends of the spring loaded shaft were too short. After some mock-up testing on the BRZ, we knew the length we needed. I asked Myles to sketch up a longer version and we CNC plasma cut those out at Vorshlag.



          This is something you could cut by hand, but when you have this sort of tool on hand it takes seconds and looked perfect.



          The included "short" bracket was used on the front mount (above left) and the longer bracket we CNC cut (above right) was used on the rear mount. these were welded to the bare steel cage by team member Paul, in his shop using a MIG welder.



          We then welded the included "release handle" to the steel portion of the spring loaded bar, which should be painted red or some other high visibility color. The rod is then threaded through the upper loops on the net, then the welded handle end goes up behind the front mount. The spring loaded end goes into the rear mount.



          These nets and handles are made for quick egress, with the release handle on the inside reachable by the driver - grab it, pull rearward, and the net falls out of the bracket. These can be quite fiddly to install, however, which is why most W2W racers have someone help them "net up" after they are belted in.



          We only use the nets during an actual W2W race, so during testing and practice days outside of a competition event these are just left shoved down under the door bars. But for sanctioned road races these door nets next to the driver are a requirement. Many folks opt to have their cage fab crew install them, but if you have a welder you can install these to your liking.

          continued below
          Terry Fair - www.vorshlag.com
          2018 GT / S550 Dev + 2013 FR-S / 86 Dev + 2011 GT / S197 Dev + C4 Corvette Dev
          EVO X Dev + 2007 Z06 / C6 Dev + BMW E46 Dev + C5 Corvette Dev

          Comment


          • #6
            continued from above

            PAINTING THE ROLL CAGE

            There are three techniques for painting your raw steel roll cage - powder coating, spray paint, and brushed/rolled on paint. In this section we will show all 3 methods, but the Pontini crew opted for spray painting it themselves. There was an option to have the fabricator Walker Pro paint the cage, and they were going to do it properly with proper prep and spray painting equipment.

            The team was quoted $2600 to paint the cage - because this is a tedious, time consuming step done at a paint shop. This is something any amateur race team can tackle in their garage, with pretty similar results - if you are meticulous and careful.



            I will start with my least favorite first - powder coating - which is the strongest and best coating for almost any metal, but extremely unpractical for a full roll cage structure welded into a chassis. Powder coating is is where the metal part is hung, a negative charge is added, and a powder coating gun sprays the powder onto the metal. Then the whole rack of parts is rolled into an oven, carefully heated to 400 degrees (but no more), the powder melts and flows to a consistent glossy finish (there are matte finishes also), and then it is carefully cooled down and hardens.

            The problem with this method for a weld-in roll cage is the whole car would have to be stripped down to a bare tub, rolled into the powder coating oven, and anything that cannot survive 400 degrees F would have to be removed or risk burning off - and modern unibody cars have hidden pockets of foam behind sheet metal, and it is extremely flammable.



            Almost nobody outside of tube framed circle track and drag car fabricators powder coat a full chassis & cage, because it would entail a huge amount of effort, cost, and risk on a unibody chassis. While we will powder coat wheels, panels, brackets, and even 4-point bolt-in roll bars (all parts can be removed), for cages we ALWAYS paint in place.



            Method two: Roll on paint. I'm not a fan of this for roll cages, but it is generally the cheapest method with no overspray. The smoothness of the finish is never as good as a properly spray painted cage. We tried this on my S550 Mustang race car cage, shown above. We used a glossy Rustoleum enamel paint that we brushed on with a foam roller and small bushes - and since it is an oil based enamel it hardens without a catalyst and gave us a glossy finish. But if you look closely the brushes strokes are visible. Just saves some time with the actual painting / plastic covering, since there is no overspray.

            I will show Method 3, spray painting the cage, below.

            PREP WORK

            There is still plenty of prep work to do before you even think of painting. The steel surfaces needs to be clean of oils, and any flash rust needs to be removed. The raw steel might have been super clean when welded, but any oils from your hands that touch raw steel will leave behind flash rust - that all has to come off.



            We use Scotch Brite pads and go over every square inch of the cage surface, removing any rust and oils. Follow that with lots of acetone and disposable heavy duty paper towels, to leave an oil free metal - THEN you can think about paint. This step can eat up a LOT of hours, of course. On the Pontini car they also wanted to respray most of the floors, as they had some ugly tar paper they needed to be removed - often the floor sections underneath are not painted by the factory.



            Get that tar paper out! Normally this step would have happened before the car went to the fabricator, but they were rushed and did it out of the normal order of operations. The Pontini crew spent some time with dry ice and a scraper, removing the tar paper insulation from the floor pan. This flash freezing of the tar paper hardens it and makes the adhesive let go, and with careful scraping it can "pop off".

            This also removes some weight, but generally leaves scratches in the floor unless you are very lucky. I much prefer to use a heat gun and a thin, 1.5" wide dry wall putty knife on German and Domestic chassis, which makes that tar paper peel right off. We have seen that many JDM cars seem to respond well to dry ice (differing suppliers for this tar paper adhesive, perhaps), and other cars do better with heat.

            Whichever method you choose - BE CAREFUL! If you use dry ice, use proper gloves to avoid frostbite. And don't HAMMER the floors or you WILL bend them. If you use the heat gun and a scraper USE CARE when scraping, to not scratch the floors up. Otherwise you have to refinish the paint on the floors.

            TIME TO SPRAY PAINT

            After the floor was cleared of insulation, and the cage and floor were properly prepped, it was time to mask before painting. A good bit of paper, plastic, and blue tape was needed to mask off anything they didn't want hit with paint or over spray.



            The Pontini crew used an off white (Dove Gray) Steel-It polyurethane spray paint, sold in aerosol cans (it took 4 cans to paint the cage and floor), which almost perfectly matched the white interior color. This stuff isn't cheap at $38 per can, but the results looked pretty amazing.



            The inside and cage now look as clean and pure as the driven snow! Seriously, having a clean race car tub and cage is a very pleasing look to many folks, and let's the tech inspectors know that you care about details. It just looks so professional.



            If you pay a paint shop to do this step, they will likely use a primer then a proper catalyzed paint. On the BMW below our painter Heritage Collision taped off the interior, wiped down the cage (again) to remove oils, then primed it with an epoxy primer. Then sprayed the inside with a PPG urethane in bright read.



            Paying a paint shop to do this job properly is expensive, but usually looks a little better with properly catalyzed primer + paint, if you are want the interior and cage in matching colors. Just be ready to write a decent sized check, and go through the hassles of dragging your race car to the paint shop, then back to pick it up.

            CHANGING THE OUTSIDE DOOR MIRROR

            The huge "barn door" side mirrors were something that really bugged Paul, so he ordered this formula car style mirrors from the UK. It was the same brand we had used on a customers race car, and he like those so I shared the source.



            Those were easy enough to bolt on, using countersunk M6 stainless bolts we kept in stock. These were moved forward on the door about 7 inches ahead of the OEM side mirror spot, after mock up testing with several driver's sitting in the driver's seat. The backup plan was to bring the OEM mirrors if one driver hated this change, but all 4 drivers at the ChampCar race liked them. This left a huge "hole" in the door, which I made a rubbing of to get a template.



            I took this template back to Vorshlag, scanned in the template, and had our guys create a CAD drawing and then a CNC plasma cut "blank". This was then filed fit to an almost a perfect fit - not good enough to make a new product, sadly. Maybe when we get a fiber laser unit we will do this, but it did speed up the cover needed for the Pontini car. That was bolted on for the race, and later was painted white to blend in a bit better.

            MAKING A CUSTOM CENTER STACK PANEL

            We here at Vorshlag worked on a center stack panel the week before the race for the team. Paul made a cardboard template, which got tweaked a few times, but it led to a scanned image, a CAD drawing, and another CNC cut panel that was then bent and fitted to the car.



            I show these steps knowing that most reading this won't have a $20K CNC plasma table to cut every bracket on, but for complex shapes you can still use these methods - and if you can get them into some CAD format, you can have parts cut quickly and cheaply with the various online suppliers like OSH cut, Send-cut-send, or similar online suppliers.



            This "center stack panel" allows for adding paddle switches, aftermarket gauges, USB ports and other mounts. They made a cardboard template of a new panel there in the center of the dash, but after we turned this to CAD we dropped in some rectangular holes for common paddle switches. They also had some unique openings they needed added - which can be made by hand but this takes SECONDS versus HOURS to cut cleanly by hand - like the opening for a mini PDM switch panel. A RAM mount for an n AiM SOLO DL lap timer was added here also, but the Flagtronics electronic flagging hardware went to the left of the main gauge panel.



            Some of these steps only got wrapped up the night before loading up for September ChampCar race - which was a tick rushed, and the Race Capture screen and data logging wasn't tested thoroughly. This screen technically worked, just had the wrong units (Celsius vs Fahrenheit), and the wireless transmitting back to the pits did not work. That proved to be a real problem in the race, which I will touch on next time.

            COVERING HOLES IN FIREWALLS + OTHER BRACKETS

            When you strip a street car down for a race car cage job, you often remove some rubber plugs or other things that leave big holes in the firewall that separates the cabin from the engine bay. The engine runs on gasoline, has engine oil, transmission fluid, and sometimes even power steering fluid - all of which are flammable, and even coolant is under the hood. We want to keep hot fluids, potential flames, fumes and other nasty things from the engine bay SEALED AWAY from the cabin.



            Before the car went to the cage fabricator the dash pan was removed, but the steering column was left in place so they could steer the car around their shop. Removing the dash reveals all sorts of things you might not need - like airbags, car stereo parts, and even the air conditioning bits. The Pontin team removed all of the factory HVAC bits and used an aftermarket heater (see above), but took that out at a later date.



            To do this we often have to make firewall coverings from metal, to replace the removed factory bits. This 2014 BRZ was no different. We made a pair of firewall block off plates on our CNC plasma table here at Vorshlag, which the Pontini crew tested for us.

            INSTALLING A FIRE SUPPRESSION SYSTEM

            While at a race track, nothing is more terrifying than seeing a car on fire out on track. The risks are low but not zero, and the more modifications to your car the higher the likelihood of a chance of a car fire. And last time I checked, human bodies were not very fire proof.



            Every W2W race car must have some sort of fire suppression system to meet safety regulations. It is also a really good idea for ANY car that goes on track. For some racing groups a removable fire bottle is enough, but when you get older and wiser - and have seen a car fire - you likely will opt for something like a 5+ nozzle fire suppression system. Some groups require nothing less.



            Personally I like having both a full multi-port suppression system AND a small 2-3 pound fire bottle on a quick-release mount, within easy reach. While I have yet to "pull the pin" on a full fire suppression system in a race car, I have had more than a couple of chances to use a hand held fire bottle to put out a grass fire or some other small fire in the pits. But as a bare minimum every HPDE car we build gets that little halon-style fire bottle on a Drake quick release mount, shown above right.



            Once you have committed to adding a full fire system, it is time to pick between the two styles. Above is a popular Lifeline 4 liter "AFFF" or aqueous fire foam system, which we have installed in a dozen or more cars. These are about $400 at the time of this writing and work by smothering the fire with foamy bubbles. These are great for putting out most fire types and even fires that can flare up again, but you will have to clean out the interior - which will be full of foam. The entire system above was 19.4 pounds.



            In the world of automotive fire suppression there is another popular type - the Halon replacements, of which there are several. Lifeline calls this their Zero 360 system, and this is what the Pontini Racing team picked for their ChampCar prepped BRZ. The system came in at 8.3 pounds, without lines or brackets - but the bottle is the majority of the weight in any system. The 2.25 kg system they bought has dual mechanical pulls and cost $1000, so a little more than 2x to 3x as much as an AFFF system.

            A Lifeline Zero 360 fire suppression system works by utilizing a "Novec 1230" gas suppressant which, upon activation, rapidly expands to fill a space, effectively extinguishing a fire by absorbing heat and displacing oxygen. This provides a 3-dimensional coverage, leaving minimal residue, making it ideal for use in enclosed spaces like race car cockpits. These have no fluids that can ruin expensive race car electronics, as well.



            Once the system arrived it was time to mount it. The Lifeline kit came with some really nice brackets, but there wasn't a flat spot in the chassis big enough to hold them. Paul made a template from graph paper in his shop, then came to the Vorshlag shop and found some aluminum sheet to make this from. He used our 48" shear to cut this to shape, then added a brushed finish with our burnishing wheel tool.



            Then back at his shop he drilled the holes for the Lifeline brackets, and bolted those to the plate. Then some holes were drilled through the rear floopan to mount the bracket. This could have been added on the passenger side of the floorpan, but this "behind the passenger seat" area allows them to install a second seat for test days. This way a passenger can ride right seat and coach any driver on the team - to help get all of the 3 main drivers down to the same lap times.



            Mounting the two fire pull handles was given some real thought as well. After seeing some fires in the last few years where one or both fire pulls were inaccessible by corner workers in a fire, we have encouraged customers to move the pulls to either side of a race car within reach of a corner worker. This way if the driver is incapacitated in a burning car one of the pulls should be easy to reach.

            continued below
            Terry Fair - www.vorshlag.com
            2018 GT / S550 Dev + 2013 FR-S / 86 Dev + 2011 GT / S197 Dev + C4 Corvette Dev
            EVO X Dev + 2007 Z06 / C6 Dev + BMW E46 Dev + C5 Corvette Dev

            Comment


            • #7
              continued from above

              The right side panel was made at the back of the door opening and attached to the B-pillar. The left side pull panel was bolted to the cage just behind the FIA vertical bar - within reach of the driver inside and a corner worked outside.



              These panels were just sheared from aluminum sheet, with brackets added to the chassis or cage that could be bolted to. The battery kills were also added to these same panels and marked with the correct FIA decals.



              With the pulls mounted, it was time to bolt on the bottle. The bracket Paul made was used to bolt the Lifeline bottle brackets to, and the assembly was bolted to the vertical shelf behind the back seat area. Then lines were run to the 5 nozzles they added. I will show where those ended up in a future update, as I don't have great pictures of those now.

              ADDING A DEFROSTER?

              This is a hotly debated item for an endurance car - do you even NEED a defroster? A race car's interior gets plenty hot while driving, BUT on a cold day before the windshield is warmed up, things can get foggy or frosty. In my "max prepped" Time Trial cars I have had a few instances where we raced at or near freezing, and I would have lost a session without a warm windshield due to lack of visibility. Or we went to extreme lengths to keep the windshield from freezing overnight, like below...



              In an endurance car, though, it is rarely used. On this BRZ (which is primarily used in Texas) it was used exactly once before it was yanked, but I'll show the steps in any case.



              Why remove the factory heater core / evap core / blower motor and put in an aftermarket one? It is summed up in a word: Weight. The OEM HVAC box tends to weight between 17 - 23 pounds, from the many cars we have stripped and weighed these on (I put a couple of examples above). Of course on this car I never got to weigh the 86's HVAC box, but it will be between those hi and low numbers above.



              The common aftermarket heater box is this unit from Summit Racing, shown above left. It weighs about 7.5 pounds (we have weighed them many times) and uses two heater hoses to route coolant through the box, into the heater core, and a squirrel cage blower motor blows air past the core. We tend to mount these under the dash, as shown above right in my 2015 Mustang.



              This same unit was ordered for the BRZ and mounted under the dash. The heat produced pumps out of the two 2.5" OD tubes. That travels through the included flexible hoses which can output to a dash vents (for the driver) or to a defroster vent (base of windshield). The latter is more important - blowing air onto the freezing windshield to keep it fog and frost free.



              Above we have the pictures of the BRZ's dash shown from underneath. The factory defrost tubing is still intact, and the opening was almost exactly 2" by 12". I had an idea for a nozzle to cover this rectangular opening that I shared with the team - a wet vacuum floor attachment.



              We had used one of these at Vorshlag in 2022 for another car, and it worked out well for a defroster vent nozzle. It even had the 2.5" hose end that the included ducting with the Summit heater box needed.



              On the Mustang example above we made an elaborate adapter plate that covers up some things we didn't want exposed to the hot air from the heater box. Then the wet vac floor nozzle bolted to that with a tight seal.

              ​​

              Paul short cut this step and just mounted and sealed this with some aluminum tape. And you know what? It worked and held airflow inside the defrost venting like it should.



              The included 3 speed switch (Off, Low, Med High) for the defroster's blower motor was mounted into the center stack panel and it could be switched on and adjusted by the driver, as needed. Again, it was used ONCE before the team got a bit weight conscious and removed the whole contraption, after the first endurance race in this car.



              We have been exploring even lighter, simpler setups for cars where we race in series that REQUIRE a heater, like SCCA Time Trial Max classes. In the Vorshlag 1995 M3 we run in Max5 class, we have to meet such a rule. We removed the 17 pound OEM heater box and added this 1.8 pound electric auxiliary heater, which had two electric element heat cores and an 80mm computer fan. It does make heat but uses an alarming 45 amps when switched on! So just know that while an electric heater can be lighter, it also has its own downsides.

              MAKING A TOW HOOK

              ChampCar requires tow hooks at both ends, like most racing groups. The factory 86 comes with one forged steel, screw-in tow hook that can be threaded into the front or rear bumpers. A lot of racers use that at both ends. Lately some racing orgs have begun to frown upon these fixed mounted tow hooks, as they tend to poke outward of the bodywork - and that can open up sheet metal on another car in contact, like a can opener. We here at Vorshlag took their stock tow hook and made a "soft" version for the rear.



              We took some measurements on the car and marked where to cut the "ring" off of the stock steel fixed tow hook. That was cut off on the band saw, and above right you can see a BEEFY bolt that we intend to thread into the THICK steel shaft (M10-1.5 x 25mm).



              Next, Myles chucked up the shortened shaft into our manual lathe and drilled a series of holes into the cut end of the shaft. Eventually he got to the final drill size (8.5mm) for an M10-1.5 thread. That was also tapped on the lathe, using a fixed tap, but done very slowly and turning the chuck by hand with the tap secured in a floating head that allows it to pull into the hole.



              With the hole drilled and tapped, Myles then added a slight taper to the opening, to help the bolt thread in smoothly. The drilled and tapped shaft was checked with our M10 bolt and it worked perfectly - and weighed in at 0.7 lbs.



              The team ordered this bolt-on tow strap from Stroud out of Oklahoma, a drag race-centric safety belt and net company. We have used their products many times, but virtually any tow strap with a bolted end would have worked. This new tow strap assemble was threaded into the factory rear tow point, but then the Stroud strap bolted into that. The excess strap was then secured to a nearby hole in the rear bumper with some Velcro, which keeps it from flapping. A "TOW" decal was then added to allow corner workers and track recovery crews to find it quickly.



              Up front we helped source this Cusco threaded / hinged tow hook assembly. Looked pretty meaty, and as you can see from above (top right) the hook doesn't stick out past the nose at all. Well the car was towed at a later event at a pretty oblique angle and the shaft bent, pretty badly. We'll likely make another "soft" tow strap for the front to replace it, using another OEM forged steel tow hook.

              LEXAN REAR WINDOW

              The front windshield is better suited to be used with 2-layer, laminated safety glass, which stops penetration of debris and resists scratching (from windshield wipers) FAR better than Lexan windshields do. The door windows were removed (as is the case with virtually all "Caged" race cars), but the back window was still tempered glass. This type of glass shatters upon impact and produces many hundreds of small pieces - which is less than ideal for a race car.



              Some budget endurance racers just remove the factory rear glass and leave it out, but that lets rain and such to coat the back of your race car, so the Pontini Team listened to my advice and went straight to Plastics 4 Performance out of the UK. This company has THE largest selection of pre-cut Lexan windows of all companies, and the quality and price is second to none (*even factoring in shipping and any potential tariffs). They picked the 4mm thick, uncoated and untinted version shown above, which weighed in at 8.95 lbs. These 4mm Lexan windows replacements are usually almost exactly half the OEM glass weight, by the way. Not really doing this for weight savings, but it never hurts.



              The front and rear windows were removed for cage work and it was time to start the Lexan installation. The P4P windows come with a blue tinted film ton both sides, which you peel off during and after installation. This was mocked up and yep, it had a perfect fit as usual. The pre-painted black border on the inside matches the OEM look and covers up the factory window gutters nicely.




              I am showing this out of order because the team forgot to do this step until after the 2nd Track test, but to reduce glare we recommend that you mask off and paint the rear deck in flat black paint. Even better is a flat panel that is painted flat black, without any contours or holes. This reduced glare in the rear view mirror considerably - don't forget this step!



              I missed taking pictures of the installation steps, so I am showing images from Pontini team principle Jason's CTS-V race car, which we did this work on here at Vorshlag. We like to mock up the window then measure the instances along the 4 sides. Come up with a spacing of between 6 to 9" inches between mounting bolts, and mark that with a Sharpie on the outer film. We then drill through the Lexan (braced onto plywood) with a SHARP bit to match the bolts we are using. Then put the Lexan back on the car and mark the holes. Then drill (of course with the holes in the middle of the window gutter) for the rivnuts you want to use. We like M5 rivnuts for Lexan. The window gutters are then covered with this 1/8" thick x 1" wide foam tape, which has adhesive on one side. That cushions the Lexan and keeps it from rattling the bolts loose.



              ​For clean, smooth install we use these Tinnerman style stainless steel washers, which help spread the load of these countersunk M5 stainless bolts over a larger area of the Lexan. The Tinnerman washers are concave, so the holes in the Lexan need a slight countersink cut (again, with a very sharp bit) for a nearly 100% flush mounted bolt and washer setup.



              All of this drilling and futzing with the bolts is done WITH THE FILM STILL LEFT ON, as shown above left. Once you are 100% "done done" you then peel the film off, as shown in the video below.



              My wife Amy was there when the Lexan window installation was completed, and she pulled the film off for this ASMR video. Lexan cannot be cleaned with traditional cleaners like Winegar based Windex of the like. A soft cloth with a soapy water solution and careful cleaning is key. But when done right, this is a very satisfying, lighter weight, and safer solution for rear window than OEM tempered glass.



              I had ordered some number boards for the team from a local graphics supplier, and Amy installed those to the doors as the Lexan was wrapping up. We also added an AiM Solo DL lap timer and data logger, and then my Sony HD video camera. I setup the 1st gen 86 protocol in the AiM and it read lots of data channels, which you can see in the Track Test #2 in-car video.

              continued below
              Terry Fair - www.vorshlag.com
              2018 GT / S550 Dev + 2013 FR-S / 86 Dev + 2011 GT / S197 Dev + C4 Corvette Dev
              EVO X Dev + 2007 Z06 / C6 Dev + BMW E46 Dev + C5 Corvette Dev

              Comment


              • #8
                continued from above

                TRACK TEST #2 - SEPTEMBER 13, 2024

                This test was one week before the first ChampCar endurance race, but we really needed to test some things. All three drivers from the Pontini Racing team (plus me) took laps in this second test of their 2014 BRZ. This time the car was caged, had some weight removal, a whole new suspension with the Bilstein PSS coilovers and custom coilover springs, the Brembo BBK, and a few other goodies.



                I met the team out there on a Friday morning for some member day testing, with some cool running in the early hours. Paul and I got to the track at 7 am, and Jason and Adam showed up with the car soon after - we were unloading the car and out on track by 7:15 am. The sun was just coming up, so the first driver (Paul) had to deal with some serious glare in his 7:15 to 7:30 am stint.



                Paul went out on the well used Bridgestone RE71RS tires, making 12 laps in the first session - coming in a number of times to bleed tire pressures, check temps on various systems, and letting us check out the car front to back. He would then go back out again, and ran until the first 30 minute session was over. He was followed out by Jason in the 8:30 am session who took 8 laps, then we hot swapped in the hot pits with Adam, who took 9 laps in the same session to cap out the second 30 minute session. I just helped, wanting to make sure they all got in test laps in case there was a problem with the car.



                We stuck around for another session as the track and ambient temps warmed up to 71F, and I went out for 10 laps. All told the car was driven on track for about one hour, using almost exactly 1/2 tank of fuel - but we had little faith that the car could go 2 hours on a tank, even with this data. The suspension setup had a significant push (understeer), as I talk about in the video below, but otherwise felt fine and had zero issues.



                The video above shows a couple of laps that I took in the car, trying to eek a lap in the 1:25 range, but only netting a 1:26.0 and some other low 1:26 lap times. I'm pretty weak on the ClockWise direction of the 1.7 mile course, compared to the normal CCW direction (where I have 1000+ laps). But the 3 other drivers had NEVER driven the 1.7 CW course, so they were at a huge disadvantage. From what I have seen the CW direction is about a second slower than CCW, but I don't have a lap time from Track Test #1 where we ran CCW to compare to. It was of course handling better than on the OEM shocks and springs, even on the same tires.

                All in all, a completely normal track test, with an hour of laps over the 4 drivers, and zero issues. The team now only had one week to complete any final tasks before loading up to go to Harris Hill Road for the car's first ChampCar event. This day the team loaded up a running car to head back to Paul's shop for the final touches.

                FINAL TASKS & WEIGHING BEFORE FIRST RACE

                We had ordered the team a set of G-LOC "R8" compound brake pads for both ends, including the big brake kit up front. These arrived the day we were track testing, so they were installed in the week before the endurance race. This should give them several weekends worth of consistent track braking without an overly aggressive compound. It was time to then load up for the second track test!



                The interior had a number of finishing touches added, like the Flagtronis electronic flagging system. This is used by ChampCar and some other series to transmit Green, Yellow and Red flag warnings to the drivers - as well as Black Flag penalties if you are caught doing something wrong and need to come in for a chat. The base station radio was also installed and tested.



                The team took one of our Vorshlag passenger seat bases and adapted it to fit a Coolshirt cooler that they borrowed from my race car. This ended up being used throughout the very hot September ChampCar race down in San Marcos, with a bag of ice lasting about 60 minutes (I ran a 97 minute stint) on that hot Saturday. The team also mounted their battery powered AMB transponder, which you have to use if you want to be scored in any W2W or Time Trial event.



                I lugged my scales to Paul's shop and weight the car in its final "race form" the week before the race, and it came in at 2641 pounds. This was 103 pounds lighter than it was in stone stock form (2745 lbs with a similar 1/2 tank fuel load) but 157 pounds heavier than the lightest the car was - right before it went to the roll cage fabricator (2484 lbs). The cage itself wasn't exactly 157 pounds, but it was very nearly that.



                After the first race the team got more serious about dropping weight and clawed back some of the weight losses, even with all of the cage and other safety equipment on board. And they aren't done chasing pounds! I will show all of this in the next installment to this build thread.

                WHAT'S NEXT?

                This 4-part post went much longer than I had intended, and it took me three months to write. This one spanned a good bit of time and many tasks. Next time I will cover the first ChampCar race - from Tech (below), to Friday Practice, to the Race itself.

                This was only the second 1st gen 86 to ever to run with ChampCar, and the first one was in the catch-all "EC" class. Since this was the first B classed Champ entry, it got a LOT of scrutiny from race directors and fellow competitors, but came out of tech with flying colors.



                Next time I will try to catch up to current work, which includes a number of repairs and upgrades after some tough lessons learned from this car's first race event. With the team's permission I will share the good, the bad, and the ugly, so that you can learn from mistakes that were made there. That's why we write all of this up - to get you excited about endurance racing but also to share tips and lessons learned the hard way.

                Thanks for reading!

                Terry @ Vorshlag
                Terry Fair - www.vorshlag.com
                2018 GT / S550 Dev + 2013 FR-S / 86 Dev + 2011 GT / S197 Dev + C4 Corvette Dev
                EVO X Dev + 2007 Z06 / C6 Dev + BMW E46 Dev + C5 Corvette Dev

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