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The offset is a definite plus, but my springs and damping are SOFT so it's seen plenty of compression travel. So I'm quite confident I won't have rubbing issues as low as I want to go. Afterall, once I'm cleared of the fender lip, the only real concern would be the inner fender. I really think I could run close to -1' camber in the rear and still not have any outer fender rubbing. The rubbing I was getting was just the leading edge of the plastic bumper where it meets with the metal fender. It's worn away now.
The eccentric is moving the lower portion of the wheel out and the upper portion (of course) in... adding tuck.
You can get up to -3* of camber in the rear.... I had to do that with those MIM wheels I had to get them to clear (crappy offset).
Besides... have I ever lead you down the wrong path?
Oh yeah... bring 2 permanent markers with you (2 colors). Mark the eccentrics where they are now and then mark where you move them too (there are hash marks on the eccentric).
OK, I tried the camber last night. First off, why do I pay for alignments?? So easy to align this car! The fender is SO close now. I might just pay to have it re-rolled. I'm not sure they can do it and I'm a little nervous since it has been rolled and subsequently re-painted. That tells me someone probably tried a baseball bat and screwed it up with body filler. I think the risk is low enough to try it though. It needs like 1 mm to clear now and mainly in one spot. Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'm hoping the autox is back on!
OK, I tried the camber last night. First off, why do I pay for alignments?? So easy to align this car!
Because you didn't reset the toe... which will chew the living hell out of your rear tires. Setting the rear toe is a complete pain in the whore. You have to loosen the 3 RTA carrier bolts and slide the carrier left/right to get the toe setting correct.
The fender is SO close now. I might just pay to have it re-rolled. I'm not sure they can do it and I'm a little nervous since it has been rolled and subsequently re-painted. That tells me someone probably tried a baseball bat and screwed it up with body filler. I think the risk is low enough to try it though. It needs like 1 mm to clear now and mainly in one spot. Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'm hoping the autox is back on!
Looks like the second rolling did the trick. Autoscope called and said it looked good and is now totally flat. Trial fit the tires tonight! So I bought Kumhos and a second fender rolling for the price of a set of Hoosiers.
7 Steve Nix Estoril Blue 1999 BMW M3 Coupe
Sponsored by: Ritual Entertainment
Sweet, one of my "cool friends" will be there. I didn't know he traded in his '98 M3 Convertible for basically MY OLD CAR (wonder if it IS my old car). I hope he doesn't mind drool on the paint. Is that why towels are on the list of stuff to bring to an autocross?
One question: I don't have numbers for my car. Where can I pick some up in a hurry? If I can't do that, do they allow the shoe polish thing like TAMSCC? I don't remember from the one time I went to one of their events since I was a bit sick that day (plus I'm just old). I prefer to be non-ghetto with my numbers.
SeanT, you need masking tape and/or the DeanMagnet(tm) system if you want them done "real quick" - unless the ProTape guy shows to BMW events. I don't recall if he does. If you plan on coming to autoxes often, hit up www.protapesigns.com or buy some sheet magnet at Hobby Lobby and come borrow my stencils
You can also hit home depot. Go to the air conditioning / heating department and pick up some magnetic vent covers. They are 8x12 rectangular sheets of magnets. You get two in a pack for $5.
I always carry a sheet or two to SCCA Tours because they always have 'new' decals you have to run... and you have to buy them. Stick it on the magnet, cut around it and you are set.
This from the guy that told me, "just go to Home Depot and get a 90 degree elbow for that intake." Sure, sure, Home Depot has metric size rubber hosing.
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