Most people know that Vorshlag is all about "maximizing wheel and tire" widths for a given car. We try to use the most tire width under a given fender "and beyond" for the S197 and S550 Mustang chassis - and many more. This discussion below is one we have often with customers that have S197 (2005-14) or S550 (2015-up) Mustangs and we will point customers here to read up on our theories, experiences, and data derived from testing wide wheels and tires under these cars. Hopefully it helps some people learn from our mistakes and progress over the years, and shortcut that line from stock to wide wheels on their track or autocross car.
OUR START WITH S197 MUSTANGS...
To explain why we push "Big Tires" on modern Mustangs we have to go back to the beginning of the Coyote S197 Mustang era...
Vorshlag purchased a 2011 Mustang GT as soon as it debuted with the Coyote V8 in 2010 (2011 model year). We campaigned this car in Autocross and Time Trial events until 2015 and have worked with many S197 racers ever since. The S197 Mustang GT came from the factory with tiny 18x8" or 19x9" wheels, and we started racing on these 18x9" Enkei wheels above with 265mm wide tires - because of autocross and Time Trial class tire width limit rules.
We also started rounding up and/or buying wheels and test fitting them to our 2011 GT in the summer of 2010, only to find that NOBODY made a 10" or wider wheel that fit this chassis at both ends. Most wheels that were sold for this car had too little offset and "poked" past the fenders (see above left), or had too little barrel diameter or spoke clearance and ran into the 14" Brembo calipers. Even many 18" diameter wheels back then didn't clear this brake package (now there are 18" wheels that clear factory S550 15" diameter rotor and 6 piston Brembo brakes).
We found a few existing 18x10" wheels that would fit the rear but not the front, or vice-versa. This Enkei 18x10.5" wheel was a popular wheel choice among S197 autocrossers, and it fit up front - but poked past the fenders by a huge amount on the rear. We actually had people try to tell us "tHiS wHeEl FiTs GrEaT!" but that is just not factual. You had to run a very tall ride height in the rear to avoid CUTTING THE TIRE INTO THE FENDERS. Or worse - had to cut and flare the car to fit these somewhat small 10.5" wide wheels...
Meanwhile we were racing in classes that were needlessly limiting these big, heavy, powerful cars to a ridiculously narrow tire, so we spent a lot of time sideways (above left). At a dedicated tire test in April 2011 (above right) we realized that in a low speed autocross test this Mustang was faster on all 3 sets of 265mm tires we tested with 4 different Nationally competitive drivers in 3rd gear vs 2nd gear. The engine made too much power (430 whp) for 2nd gear to be useful - it all turned to wheelspin - so we effectively reduced torque by a considerable amount in the higher gear, and went a full second faster on a 30 second course. That was when we knew it was a lost cause... we needed more tire width!
LET'S MAKE A WHEEL
After that tire test we set out to make a wider wheel for this chassis, and moved to better autocross and TT classes that allowed a wider tire package.
We came up with a spec for an 18x10" wheel built for us D-Force Wheels, using the same flow formed wheel style we had been selling to BMW folks since 2007 except we made it stronger for the heavier Mustang chassis - it gained 1 pound in weight. Every wheel maker that supported this chassis quickly copied this 18x10 size and our ET43 offset, but we still sold hundreds of these wheels over the next couple of years. We learned another valuable lesson - don't publish the wheel offset specs, to make the copy cat wheel makers to actually have to do their own homework to figure out how to fit wider wheels onto various cars.
This 18x10" wheel was ideal for a 275-295mm wide tire, and we ran many sets of tires in these widths and various compounds. We had the best success with a 295/35/18 tire - which happened to be the biggest tire that effectively fit this wheel size. The car went from a total nightmare to drive at low speed events (autocross) or on track (Time Trial / HPDE) on the 265mm tires to much more manageable on the 275-295mm sizes. Our car was instantly faster and our class results got better.
Over time the available tire options in 18" diameters that fit this car (it needs a 26-28" tall tire) shrank drastically, and you cannot sell a wheel size if there are few or no tires to choose from. So we moved street tire customers to 19" wheels on these cars. These days it is very rare for us to sell 10" wide wheels for either the S197 or S550 Mustangs anymore, after the popular 285-295mm wide tire sizes went away - and the car is so much faster on wider tires. We start at 11...
There is always a point of diminishing returns on tire width for a given wheel width. And remember: not all tires measure the same, even with the same size printed on the sidewall. Hoosiers tend to "run big" and this 295/40/18 was a bit too wide for the 18x10" wheel we made. That tire needed an 18x11 wheel, and it was also a bit tall - which affected both final gearing and ride height.
As you can see above, the 315/35/18 race tire was an even more massive squeeze onto the same 18x10" wheel. The only people that squeeze fat tires onto narrow wheels are doing so due to: poorly written class rules, shear ignorance, or poverty budgets that limit them to a wheel they already have. This is a BAD IDEA. As much as we preach "Big Tires Matter" mantra, you have to couple wheel width with tire width. More on that below.
LET'S GO BIGGER
In late 2011 we found out about a wheel company called Forgestar - the first "flow formed" wheel company that made bespoke wheels to order. We gathered a lot of measurements, sent them an order, and in March 2011 we got our first set of Big Wheels ever to go onto an S197.
We made this 18x11" front and 18x12" rear wheel in their F14 wheel style and mounted that 315/35/18 Kumho race tire under the stock fenders. Nothing like this had been done before, not that we ever saw, and images of this wheel and tire package "broke the internet". Lots of haters argued this "wasn't possible" but the pictures don't lie...
Neither did the results. We burst into the NASA Time Trial TTS class then TT3 scene with a lot of wins and track records over the 2012-15 seasons. We also improved our autocross class results dramatically in SCCA ESP class, until we felt that the SCCA class restrictions were holding back our NASA Time Trial setup.
I want to warn folks here that running the 18x12" rear wheel is trick on these cars and requires cutting the upper bump stop mount off the car to allow the wheel to droop out fully when on a lift.
For 99% of our S197 customers we instead sold them 18x11" wheels for both ends. Now the offsets are over an inch different so the wheels do not swap front to rear. This way you don't have to buy some massive 30mm thick spacer + longer wheel studs, or a bolt on spacer. We instead help our customers maximize tire wear by getting proper suspension components and alignment settings rather than let them fret about rotating tires front to back.
We don't mention that to be flippant - we mean it, and we have proven data points on dozens of sets of tires that show you can get good, even wear with proper dampers + spring rates, plus proven camber and toe settings. Over the life of one set of track tires we tend to flip them inside/out once to get the best outer shoulder wear. This might be a once a year task for racers - not a huge expense. Flipping wheels front to back will not add additional life to a tire like this inside/out trick.
Since 2012 we have sold a LOT of flow formed Forgestar wheels, and now their new parent company MOMO wheels as well. D-Force Wheels went away a few years back, so these are our mainstay wheel company. There just isn't another company making flow formed wheels (light + strong) in bespoke wheel width/color/offsets, anywhere near this price point. It is easy to literally spend 200-500% more for the same sized wheels from other custom wheel makers.
Often these higher end wheels are no lighter or stronger - they just cost a lot more money. We tell our customers that "the clocks don't care" how much you spend on wheels. If they are straight and true, are built to the offsets we order, clear the brakes and fit your car just go with it. If it makes you feel better spending more money, you can always buy 3 sets for the price of one set of fancier wheels.
RUNNING PROPER WHEEL WIDTH FOR A GIVEN TIRE
Between 2010 through 2015 we progressed from 265mm to 275mm to 285mm to 305mm to 315mm to 335mm to 345mm tires. The first year we ran with our first "dedicated" Forgestar wheel set for use with 315mm tires was the 18x11" front and 18x12" rear. What wheel width you should run for a given tire size is a big subject and we can get lost in the weeds really quickly. I will summarize this in a couple of points then show some examples.
Early in 2010 when we were testing wheels and tires for the S197 we experimented with tires mounted to differing wheel widths. The old "go to" wheel size for a 285/30/18 Hoosier used to be an 18x10" wheel, but when we mounted it to an 18x10.5" wheel it fit even better.
Some autocrossers and track drivers will run this 285/30/18 tire on an 18x11" wheel - which we did on the LS V8 powered BMW E30 above - just don't lose site of the fact that running more tire width helps more than just maximizing wheel to tire ratios. The diminishing returns start to kick in for this tire after 10.5"... the car above got a free set of 285 Hoosiers, but it would have been faster on a 315/30/18 tire on these 18x11 wheels. If speed matters to you, bias towards more tire width over the "perfect" wheel width.
After seeing better wear on the 18x12" rear wheel, we felt it was time to I got over my hesitance to "cut the car", so we bought another set of front fenders. In May of 2013 we moved the same 315/30/18 Hoosier tires onto 18x12" wheels front and rear, as shown above. We ran like this for 9 events over the next 6 months and saw a marginal lap time drop of roughly 1/2 second, and better front tire wear. Again - just a little more tire on the ground helps.
This was our S197 Mustang on 18x12" wheels front and rear with a 315/30/18 Hoosier at NASA Nationals in 2013 - we had added a custom fender flare at the front to clear the wider wheel setup (all of the added inch of width was outboard), and on an S550 chassis you would have to cut and flare BOTH ends to fit this wheel package. As good as this 315mm/18x12" package looks - if you have to cut the car to do it, just stick with the 18x11" wheel and 315mm tire instead. The gains are too small for the costs of flares / fab work to cut fenders.
ADDING FLARES COSTS MONEY BUT MAKES ROOM FOR MORE TIRE
In early 2012 I was tempted by the gains we made going from 265 all the way up to 315mm tires, and ordered a pair of these 345/35/18 Hoosiers... we call it the #GodTire.
This tire measures an astounding 13.9" wide for section width and 13.2" for tread width. That is a big mother! The biggest DOT tire Hoosier makes. It was designed for use behind Rear Wheel Drive V8 and V10 powered cars for the rear drive tires. It isn't typically used as a "steering tire" for the front. 26.8" tall, also comes in 19" diameter.
We ran this tire on our car with 315mm fronts using the existing 18x12" rear wheels - briefly, at 3 autocross events. It needed a spacer to clear the inner fenders, but by the time we got it to stop smoking from massive tire rub inboard it was rubbing on the fender outboard. The 345mm Hoosier simply will not fit under S197 Mustang fenders. These tires were faster - the car had AMAZING forward bite, right up until you had to turn. The sidewalls rubbed so badly it would make the car hop and bounce and smoke like mad. Corner workers kept calling in that the car was on fire. DON'T TRY THIS without flares...
After seeing the gains by going to a 12" wide front wheel on the same 315mm rears and the brief testing we did with the 345s out back, we decided to cut and flare the rear fenders. After a few weeks of fabrication and bodywork we had a flared rear fender, to match our over-flare on the front.
We immediately moved to a wider 335/30/18 front tire and the previously tested 345/35/18 rear Hoosiers. Now ideally we would have moved to an 18x13" wheel all the way around, but at the time Forgestar didn't make anything wider.
Starting in 2015 Forgestar added this 18x13" size for their F14 wheel style. And yes, this "would have been better" - but... with this wider tire package we still dropped 1.5 to 2 seconds per lap in 2014-15. Even on a "less than ideal" wheel size.
Admittedly this was a less than ideal wheel size for these 335/345 Hoosiers - but - we set more track records and had bigger win margins in NASA TT3 class on these tires vs the 18x11 / 315mm or 18x12 / 315mm Hoosiers. Lap times were better, car was easier to drive, tires lasted longer. We could get on the throttle SO MUCH SOONER exiting a corner than the 315mm tires. #ResultsMatter
We aren't saying you should try to use the massive 345 Hoosier on a 12" wide wheel, especially now that an affordable 18x13" wheel exists from Forgestar, but we did see big gains going up from a 315mm tire on the same 18x12. That's the 345 Hoosier mounted to our 18x12" wheel setup, above left. It isn't a a hideous squeeze, but the picture above right (courtesy of Chet Wayne) shows the 345mm Hoosier on a proper 18x13" wheel. This pic has two of each wheels/tires stacked up and the wider wheel IS giving a more tire on the ground. If you are going to cut and flare anyway, might as well get the wider wheel.
continued below
OUR START WITH S197 MUSTANGS...
To explain why we push "Big Tires" on modern Mustangs we have to go back to the beginning of the Coyote S197 Mustang era...
Vorshlag purchased a 2011 Mustang GT as soon as it debuted with the Coyote V8 in 2010 (2011 model year). We campaigned this car in Autocross and Time Trial events until 2015 and have worked with many S197 racers ever since. The S197 Mustang GT came from the factory with tiny 18x8" or 19x9" wheels, and we started racing on these 18x9" Enkei wheels above with 265mm wide tires - because of autocross and Time Trial class tire width limit rules.
We also started rounding up and/or buying wheels and test fitting them to our 2011 GT in the summer of 2010, only to find that NOBODY made a 10" or wider wheel that fit this chassis at both ends. Most wheels that were sold for this car had too little offset and "poked" past the fenders (see above left), or had too little barrel diameter or spoke clearance and ran into the 14" Brembo calipers. Even many 18" diameter wheels back then didn't clear this brake package (now there are 18" wheels that clear factory S550 15" diameter rotor and 6 piston Brembo brakes).
We found a few existing 18x10" wheels that would fit the rear but not the front, or vice-versa. This Enkei 18x10.5" wheel was a popular wheel choice among S197 autocrossers, and it fit up front - but poked past the fenders by a huge amount on the rear. We actually had people try to tell us "tHiS wHeEl FiTs GrEaT!" but that is just not factual. You had to run a very tall ride height in the rear to avoid CUTTING THE TIRE INTO THE FENDERS. Or worse - had to cut and flare the car to fit these somewhat small 10.5" wide wheels...
Meanwhile we were racing in classes that were needlessly limiting these big, heavy, powerful cars to a ridiculously narrow tire, so we spent a lot of time sideways (above left). At a dedicated tire test in April 2011 (above right) we realized that in a low speed autocross test this Mustang was faster on all 3 sets of 265mm tires we tested with 4 different Nationally competitive drivers in 3rd gear vs 2nd gear. The engine made too much power (430 whp) for 2nd gear to be useful - it all turned to wheelspin - so we effectively reduced torque by a considerable amount in the higher gear, and went a full second faster on a 30 second course. That was when we knew it was a lost cause... we needed more tire width!
LET'S MAKE A WHEEL
After that tire test we set out to make a wider wheel for this chassis, and moved to better autocross and TT classes that allowed a wider tire package.
We came up with a spec for an 18x10" wheel built for us D-Force Wheels, using the same flow formed wheel style we had been selling to BMW folks since 2007 except we made it stronger for the heavier Mustang chassis - it gained 1 pound in weight. Every wheel maker that supported this chassis quickly copied this 18x10 size and our ET43 offset, but we still sold hundreds of these wheels over the next couple of years. We learned another valuable lesson - don't publish the wheel offset specs, to make the copy cat wheel makers to actually have to do their own homework to figure out how to fit wider wheels onto various cars.
This 18x10" wheel was ideal for a 275-295mm wide tire, and we ran many sets of tires in these widths and various compounds. We had the best success with a 295/35/18 tire - which happened to be the biggest tire that effectively fit this wheel size. The car went from a total nightmare to drive at low speed events (autocross) or on track (Time Trial / HPDE) on the 265mm tires to much more manageable on the 275-295mm sizes. Our car was instantly faster and our class results got better.
Over time the available tire options in 18" diameters that fit this car (it needs a 26-28" tall tire) shrank drastically, and you cannot sell a wheel size if there are few or no tires to choose from. So we moved street tire customers to 19" wheels on these cars. These days it is very rare for us to sell 10" wide wheels for either the S197 or S550 Mustangs anymore, after the popular 285-295mm wide tire sizes went away - and the car is so much faster on wider tires. We start at 11...
There is always a point of diminishing returns on tire width for a given wheel width. And remember: not all tires measure the same, even with the same size printed on the sidewall. Hoosiers tend to "run big" and this 295/40/18 was a bit too wide for the 18x10" wheel we made. That tire needed an 18x11 wheel, and it was also a bit tall - which affected both final gearing and ride height.
As you can see above, the 315/35/18 race tire was an even more massive squeeze onto the same 18x10" wheel. The only people that squeeze fat tires onto narrow wheels are doing so due to: poorly written class rules, shear ignorance, or poverty budgets that limit them to a wheel they already have. This is a BAD IDEA. As much as we preach "Big Tires Matter" mantra, you have to couple wheel width with tire width. More on that below.
LET'S GO BIGGER
In late 2011 we found out about a wheel company called Forgestar - the first "flow formed" wheel company that made bespoke wheels to order. We gathered a lot of measurements, sent them an order, and in March 2011 we got our first set of Big Wheels ever to go onto an S197.
We made this 18x11" front and 18x12" rear wheel in their F14 wheel style and mounted that 315/35/18 Kumho race tire under the stock fenders. Nothing like this had been done before, not that we ever saw, and images of this wheel and tire package "broke the internet". Lots of haters argued this "wasn't possible" but the pictures don't lie...
Neither did the results. We burst into the NASA Time Trial TTS class then TT3 scene with a lot of wins and track records over the 2012-15 seasons. We also improved our autocross class results dramatically in SCCA ESP class, until we felt that the SCCA class restrictions were holding back our NASA Time Trial setup.
I want to warn folks here that running the 18x12" rear wheel is trick on these cars and requires cutting the upper bump stop mount off the car to allow the wheel to droop out fully when on a lift.
For 99% of our S197 customers we instead sold them 18x11" wheels for both ends. Now the offsets are over an inch different so the wheels do not swap front to rear. This way you don't have to buy some massive 30mm thick spacer + longer wheel studs, or a bolt on spacer. We instead help our customers maximize tire wear by getting proper suspension components and alignment settings rather than let them fret about rotating tires front to back.
We don't mention that to be flippant - we mean it, and we have proven data points on dozens of sets of tires that show you can get good, even wear with proper dampers + spring rates, plus proven camber and toe settings. Over the life of one set of track tires we tend to flip them inside/out once to get the best outer shoulder wear. This might be a once a year task for racers - not a huge expense. Flipping wheels front to back will not add additional life to a tire like this inside/out trick.
Since 2012 we have sold a LOT of flow formed Forgestar wheels, and now their new parent company MOMO wheels as well. D-Force Wheels went away a few years back, so these are our mainstay wheel company. There just isn't another company making flow formed wheels (light + strong) in bespoke wheel width/color/offsets, anywhere near this price point. It is easy to literally spend 200-500% more for the same sized wheels from other custom wheel makers.
Often these higher end wheels are no lighter or stronger - they just cost a lot more money. We tell our customers that "the clocks don't care" how much you spend on wheels. If they are straight and true, are built to the offsets we order, clear the brakes and fit your car just go with it. If it makes you feel better spending more money, you can always buy 3 sets for the price of one set of fancier wheels.
RUNNING PROPER WHEEL WIDTH FOR A GIVEN TIRE
Between 2010 through 2015 we progressed from 265mm to 275mm to 285mm to 305mm to 315mm to 335mm to 345mm tires. The first year we ran with our first "dedicated" Forgestar wheel set for use with 315mm tires was the 18x11" front and 18x12" rear. What wheel width you should run for a given tire size is a big subject and we can get lost in the weeds really quickly. I will summarize this in a couple of points then show some examples.
- Running a wider wheel for a given tire size puts more "tire on the ground", up to a point. It is a smaller gain than you might think.
- This is a trick that can maximize tire width restricted classes, but most rules makers figured out the "wide wheel" trick
- There are usually space constraints on the chassis and/or bodywork that limit wheel width, so its not a "free" mod.
- Sometimes people get overly focused on maximizing wheel width and ignore the tires. These two need to go hand-in-hand.
- The tires are the only thing connecting the car to the track.
- Nothing else is more important to track performance than maximizing tire on the ground. NOTHING.
- Everything we do on the suspension is done to "make the tires happy", to keep them on the ground and maximizing the usable contact patches.
Early in 2010 when we were testing wheels and tires for the S197 we experimented with tires mounted to differing wheel widths. The old "go to" wheel size for a 285/30/18 Hoosier used to be an 18x10" wheel, but when we mounted it to an 18x10.5" wheel it fit even better.
Some autocrossers and track drivers will run this 285/30/18 tire on an 18x11" wheel - which we did on the LS V8 powered BMW E30 above - just don't lose site of the fact that running more tire width helps more than just maximizing wheel to tire ratios. The diminishing returns start to kick in for this tire after 10.5"... the car above got a free set of 285 Hoosiers, but it would have been faster on a 315/30/18 tire on these 18x11 wheels. If speed matters to you, bias towards more tire width over the "perfect" wheel width.
After seeing better wear on the 18x12" rear wheel, we felt it was time to I got over my hesitance to "cut the car", so we bought another set of front fenders. In May of 2013 we moved the same 315/30/18 Hoosier tires onto 18x12" wheels front and rear, as shown above. We ran like this for 9 events over the next 6 months and saw a marginal lap time drop of roughly 1/2 second, and better front tire wear. Again - just a little more tire on the ground helps.
This was our S197 Mustang on 18x12" wheels front and rear with a 315/30/18 Hoosier at NASA Nationals in 2013 - we had added a custom fender flare at the front to clear the wider wheel setup (all of the added inch of width was outboard), and on an S550 chassis you would have to cut and flare BOTH ends to fit this wheel package. As good as this 315mm/18x12" package looks - if you have to cut the car to do it, just stick with the 18x11" wheel and 315mm tire instead. The gains are too small for the costs of flares / fab work to cut fenders.
ADDING FLARES COSTS MONEY BUT MAKES ROOM FOR MORE TIRE
In early 2012 I was tempted by the gains we made going from 265 all the way up to 315mm tires, and ordered a pair of these 345/35/18 Hoosiers... we call it the #GodTire.
This tire measures an astounding 13.9" wide for section width and 13.2" for tread width. That is a big mother! The biggest DOT tire Hoosier makes. It was designed for use behind Rear Wheel Drive V8 and V10 powered cars for the rear drive tires. It isn't typically used as a "steering tire" for the front. 26.8" tall, also comes in 19" diameter.
We ran this tire on our car with 315mm fronts using the existing 18x12" rear wheels - briefly, at 3 autocross events. It needed a spacer to clear the inner fenders, but by the time we got it to stop smoking from massive tire rub inboard it was rubbing on the fender outboard. The 345mm Hoosier simply will not fit under S197 Mustang fenders. These tires were faster - the car had AMAZING forward bite, right up until you had to turn. The sidewalls rubbed so badly it would make the car hop and bounce and smoke like mad. Corner workers kept calling in that the car was on fire. DON'T TRY THIS without flares...
After seeing the gains by going to a 12" wide front wheel on the same 315mm rears and the brief testing we did with the 345s out back, we decided to cut and flare the rear fenders. After a few weeks of fabrication and bodywork we had a flared rear fender, to match our over-flare on the front.
We immediately moved to a wider 335/30/18 front tire and the previously tested 345/35/18 rear Hoosiers. Now ideally we would have moved to an 18x13" wheel all the way around, but at the time Forgestar didn't make anything wider.
Starting in 2015 Forgestar added this 18x13" size for their F14 wheel style. And yes, this "would have been better" - but... with this wider tire package we still dropped 1.5 to 2 seconds per lap in 2014-15. Even on a "less than ideal" wheel size.
Admittedly this was a less than ideal wheel size for these 335/345 Hoosiers - but - we set more track records and had bigger win margins in NASA TT3 class on these tires vs the 18x11 / 315mm or 18x12 / 315mm Hoosiers. Lap times were better, car was easier to drive, tires lasted longer. We could get on the throttle SO MUCH SOONER exiting a corner than the 315mm tires. #ResultsMatter
We aren't saying you should try to use the massive 345 Hoosier on a 12" wide wheel, especially now that an affordable 18x13" wheel exists from Forgestar, but we did see big gains going up from a 315mm tire on the same 18x12. That's the 345 Hoosier mounted to our 18x12" wheel setup, above left. It isn't a a hideous squeeze, but the picture above right (courtesy of Chet Wayne) shows the 345mm Hoosier on a proper 18x13" wheel. This pic has two of each wheels/tires stacked up and the wider wheel IS giving a more tire on the ground. If you are going to cut and flare anyway, might as well get the wider wheel.
continued below
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